Thursday, April 20, 2006

Belize

My first trip was in April 2004. I travelled to Belize, which is the old British Honduras and is located in Central America. Belize is a land of jungles and sea. Our group of 12, Americans and Canadians, enjoyed camping on a deserted island, snorkeling, ocean kayaking and river kayaking through the jungle.

We spent our first day hiking through the jungle until we reached an area called Aktun Tunichil Muknal, where there was a cave with an underground river. We had to swim through a pool of water to gain access to the cave; hiking and swimming to reach the huge openings where we found Mayan ceremonial artifacts and human sacrificial remains.










We took a boat from Dangriga, which dropped us off on a deserted island near Tobacco Caye. Here, we spent two days kayaking, snorkeling and crocodile hunting.

The next couple of days were spent on Glover's Reef, where we slept in beach front cabanas. We spent lazy days snorkeling and fishing.

Then it was back to Dangriga. After arriving, we drove to the Banana Bank Lodge on the Belize River. We had our first real showers in days and some delicious meals. I enjoyed horse back riding and exploring the grounds of the river front plantation. The evening was spent watching the fireflies and listening to the howler monkeys and all the other jungle life.

We spent the next four days on the Macal River swimming and kayaking through the jungle and camping on the river bank. Led by discoverer Greg Sho, we explored old Mayan sights. Greg had spent the past years documenting the river and wildlife in an attempt to halt plans of a massive hydroelectric project that will threaten the tropical wildlife. As we hiked and kayaked, he pointed out the many Scarlet Macaws, iguanas, green parrots and snakes. On a kayak, Greg silently paddled through the darkness of the night, manuevering under trees and around rocks that I didn't know were there to approach crocodiles, tapirs, and iguanas.


After three nights of sleeping on the hard ground, cooking over a fire and being eaten up by ticks, we needed the night at Pook's Hill Lodge. There, we had our own shower, a real bed, drinks in the bar, and a delicious dinner, bringing our stay in Belize to an end.

Wednesday, April 19, 2006

Thailand

My first trip to Thailand was in February 2005. I had heard from friends how inexpensive it was, about the interesting culture, and that the beaches were beautiful. It was all this and more. This trip was arranged through a tour agency located in the United Kingdom. Once I met with the group, I found that I was the only American among the 13 from the UK, 2 from Austria, 1 from the Netherlands and 1 from South Africa. This trip was considered an "adventurer" class of tour, meaning that we would be staying in inexpensive lodging, riding in the back of trucks to some destinations, sleeping on three overnight trains, and hiking through the hills between villages.

I found Bangkok to be large and noisy. Yet, it does have a good subway system and many other modes of transportation. There are also a lot of parks and temples where you can relax and escape from all the constant traffic. About three days is enough to learn your way around, see the main attractions, and to be ready to go north to the smaller, quieter cities or south to the white sand beaches.

We took an overnight train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai, arriving in about 12 hours. The train isn't a bad way to travel if you want to save money and being able to sleep while enroute saves time. You can order meals or beers at your seat and table and the porters get your bed ready for you around 9:00 pm. They awake you with coffee or orange juice, allowing you enough time to be ready to depart at your next destination.


After spending one day and night in Chiang Mai with plans to return, we boarded the trucks and set out for the hills for our three-day trek to stay with and learn about the Karen, Lahu and Lisu hilltribes. We spent about three hours hiking between the first two villages and rode elephants to the third. I fell asleep easily after the hikes and none of us had a problem oversleeping since there was always a rooster that seemed to crow around 4:00 am.

We floated down the river on bamboo rafts made by the Lisu, to get back to the trucks, which took us back to Chiang Mai. From there, we caught the train back to Bangkok and relaxed for a couple of days. Next, we boarded our last train and then a bus to Khao Sok National Park, where we spent one night sleeping in treehouses.

The following day, we took vans to Raja Phraba Lake in the park. It is a deep lake with magnificient limestone formations. We travelled on long-tail boats to where we stayed in raft houses, where we could jump out our back doors and float on inner-tubes in the warm water. At night we quietly floated near the bank and watched the monkeys come down for water.

After three nights on the raft houses, we were ready to leave for the beaches of Ao Nang near Krabi in the south. The resort area was a fantastic place to spend our last two days in Thailand. We took one of the speedboats and visited five of the nearby islands where we swam, snorkled, and had lunch. The water is warm, clear and torquoise with colorful fish that are as interested in you as you are in them. We visted an island where a family of eight live in a cave. They spend their days climbing ropes suspended from the top of the cave to retrieve swallow's nests to sell for making bird's nest soup.

Thailand Again

In January 2006 I made my second trip to Thailand. I considered traveling alone but found a group tour at a price I couldn't refuse. I was able to see some new places and to take the time to explore further places that I had enjoyed during my first trip. This group was an older crowd and all first timers to Thailand. I spent all my nights in the same hotels as the group and would see some of them at breakfast. Then most of them would get on the bus for their day trips, while I would venture on my own.

Our first day in Bangkok I wanted to go with the group to Wat Trimitr to see the five ton solid gold image of the Buddha. Since I saw a few Wats (temples) last time I bailed on all the Wat tours this time. There are over 400 Wats in Bangkok alone. I spent three days in Bangkok using all modes of transportation and finally know my way around enough to not get lost. I enjoyed getting away from the tourist spots and instead concentrated on the smaller markets, local parks and rode city buses. I even went to a movie at the theater where the attendees stand to pay homage to the King of Thailand as pictures of him are shown on the screen and the Thailand national anthem is played. I can't see myself spending more than a few days in Bangkok when I return.

After Bangkok we boarded air conditioned buses, a step up from my first trip, for Ayutthaya, which is an ancient former capital of Thailand that was destroyed and burned by the Burmese over 200 years ago.

We made a stop in Lop Buri at the Prang Sam Temple where hundreds of monkeys reside. We walked around the grounds and inside the few remains of the 17th century temple. The monkeys ignored most of us except for the few tourists that offered peanuts. Our tour guide forgot to inform us, as we disembarked our bus, not to smile at the monkeys. Fortunately, I was able to warn them that the monkeys might presume the showing of teeth to be a show of aggression.

We continued traveling north to the Golden Triangle, taking a boat ride up the Mekong River that separates Thailand, Laos and Myanmar (formerly Burma). We arrived in Laos at a small village, where we did some shopping. We drove back and spent the night in Chiang Rai.

The next morning we rode in the back of the trucks on a dirt road through villages and farmland until we reached a small village in the hills. We, along with other visitors from neighboring villages, waited for the arrival of the "Monks on Horses". Every morning the Buddhist monks from the nearby temple ride on their horses to the village to accept the offerings of food and other necessities from the villagers. The offerings are then taken back to the temple and any extra is shared with the needy from other villages. The head monk has resided in the temple for over 30 years. He described through our translator his younger life of wars with the Burmese and opium lords and his desire to devote his life to Buddhism. Since many of the young monks were abanded as orphans and lacking in discipline, he taught them Muay Thai (kickboxing).

My favorite city is Chiang Mai. I enjoyed it during my first trip and this time I had the opportunity to do more exploring. It is one of the largest cities after Bangkok but is unlike it in many ways: cleaner, less noisy and has less people. In the middle of Chiang Mai is the "Old City" surrounded by a moat and remains of the old wall once used for protection. Chiang Mai is the place I will return some day for an extended visit.

Our final excursion before flying back to Bangkok the next day for our return home was to visit the Elephant's Camp at Maesa. We rode the elephants as their Mahoot (master) directed them where to go and what to do. The Mahoots and their families live at this camp of 80 elephants. Each elephant has one Mahoot for life; they will spend up to 50 years together. Since the elephant's life span is up to 85 years the Mahoot will almost always die first. The elephant will grieve over his death for up to a year.

Tuesday, April 18, 2006

Vietnam

In March of 2007 I visited Vietnam. I flew into Ho Chi Minh City previously known as Saigon. From there our group from Canada, South Africa, Australia and the UK would travel north over the next two weeks to Hanoi. One of the things Vietnam is most known for is the traffic. It takes a couple of days to get used to crossing a street filled with hundreds of vehicles. Most of the people ride motorbikes and they do not stop or slow down for passengers. When crossing a street if you walk slowly at the same pace the drivers will go around you.

Many Vietnamese awake early and by 6:00 am are out exercising in nearby parks. Their exercises consist of walking, stretching and playing badminton. The street markets also open early selling fresh fish, meat, fruits and vegetables for the daily meals. While there is not much to see in HCMC it is interesting to watch the people go about their routine daily activities.

After a couple of days we boarded a bus for Vinh Long where we had lunch at the home of Mr. Binh who served in the French War and the "American War". He left to fight the North only to return and find he had lost everything. Years later he was given the piece of land upon which he built his home. We left and got into small boats that were able to take us up the small canals of the Mekong Delta where we spent a night at one of the locals. All of the homes in this region are only accessible by small boats or motorbikes. We left the next morning for the Mekong to a floating market where fish, meat, fruits and vegetables are purchased for resale or personal use.

Taking an overnight train to the coastal town of Nha Trang we arrived at 6:45 am. For 65 cents three of us rented bicycles for the day. We eventually found the giant white Buddah at Long Son Pagoda and the Po Nagar Cham Towers built between the 7th and 12th centuries. Not many Vietnamese speak English and a few young women at a bakery found it amusing when I tried to imitate a train. According to our map a train track ran nearby the Buddah we were looking for. Nha Trang is known for its seafood so it was not surprising to see all the beautiful, blue fishing boats in the river harbor near the bridge we rode our bicycles over.

Another overnight train took us to Danang and by bus we arrived in Hoi An about 6:30 am. This was my favorite city and I plan to return to it and Hanoi on my next visit. Hoi An is small with a lot of preserved historical buildings. It is also a coastal town and sits on a river. Soon after arriving I walked through town and across the bridge to Cam Nam Island. Seeking a place to get out of the early morning rain I found a hair salon, massage and snack place. The friendly family invited me into their home for coffee. I made plans to return in the afternoon for a tour of the area on the back of a motorbike. Hoi An has great restaurants, art galleries and is the home of many tailors.

The next morning I made my way back towards the bridge and noticed the fish market activity near the river. While walking around the market a woman in a small boat waved for me to get into the boat with her. She paddled around giving me a different view of the market. On the motorbike my tour guide and I rode about 20 miles into Danang. There we shopped for clothing in the day market and explored a department store. On the way back to Hoi An we stopped at Marble Mountains where you can hike up the limestone peaks and admire the cave-pagodas.

Leaving Hoi An by bus we drove three hours over Cloud Mountain Pass to Hue. It was a beautiful drive up through the mountains overlooking the South China Sea and sandy beaches below. After arriving in Hue we walked to the Imperial City built in the style of the Forbidden City in Beijing where only the emperor and royal family were allowed. The next morning we boarded a Dragon Boat and went up the Perfume River. We visited a pagoda and two of the many tombs of ancient emperors. The emperors are laid to rest within the ruins of temples and courtyards in forests along the river where they once lived.

From Hue we took our last overnight train to Hanoi. Hanoi is quieter than Ho Chi Minh City and cleaner with its lakes and tree-lined boulevards. The streets are smaller and less congested with traffic. The French influence is obvious within the architecture and food. We stayed near Hoan Kiem Lake in the Old Quarter where the streets are narrow and busy with shopping. Sunday morning I visited the Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum and museum with hundreds of others. Thousands of people pay their respect daily to their hero whose body lies under glass.
After the rest of my group left I stayed in Hanoi for three additional days. I was up early each morning to observe the people as they made their way to walk around the lake and perform their daily exercises. I watched the women load their baskets with fresh fish, meat, fruits and vegetables to be sold throughout the day as they walked the streets till dark. In the morning the men congregate in small groups to drink coffee and smoke then spend the rest of their day sitting on their motor bikes offering rides to the tourists. Not many of the Vietnamese speak English but those that do will sometimes approach and want to talk and learn about you. They are hard workers and very friendly. I look forward to my return.

Monday, April 17, 2006

Thailand and Vietnam

In January 2008 I decided to travel on my own to Thailand and Vietnam. I wanted to find out how well I would do in hopes of traveling more when I retire for greater lengths of time. I chose to return to three of my favorite spots Chiang Mai, Thailand, Hanoi and Hoi An, Vietnam. My trip was just over two weeks long with stays of five days in each place.

After landing in Bangkok, Thailand I caught the first flight to Chiang Mai. Although it would be my third time there it would be my longest stay. I wanted to have more time to explore and relax. The weather in January was perfect with warm days and cool nights. I did a lot of walking and revisted some of the places from my last trips.

Each morning I would get up early and get something to eat and drink at the market down the street from my hotel. Here I would find the locals buying their fresh produce, meats, and fish for the day. One morning I bought an egg pancake, fried pastry, and fresh orange juice for breakfast and beef, rice, and noodle for lunch--- all for 54 Baht or $ 2.00 U.S. At Buak Haad Park, I read and planned my day's activities as the locals jogged by and exercised.

After the first couple of evenings, I discovered this was the time when the tourists came out in droves filling up the restaurants and bars. I soon became discouraged and not wanting to be "one of them" was determined to eat where the locals ate and venture out away from the city. I chose to eat my dinners at the street vendors where I would try two or three different dishes each evening. These were the same foods that were found in the restaurants but at a cheaper price and I got to eat with the locals instead of other tourists.

To get away I rented a bicycle and rode out of the city on a four hour trip that took me past farms and small towns. Out there nothing is written or spoken in English. After having lunch in a roadside cafe, I traveled back along the Ping River that led me back to Chiang Mai. One evening, I spent a couple of hours at Wat Suan Dok where you can "chat" with the monks. They get to practice their English and you get to learn about their religion and lives.

My next stop was Hanoi where it was winter and much colder. Once again, I stayed in the Old Quarter near Hoan Kiem Lake. I spent as much time as I could meeting with the locals. My goals were to learn as much about them as possible and investigate the possibility of returning for months at some time in the future.

Hanoi was celebrating it's birth from 1,000 years ago. There was a parade with floats and representatives from nearby provinces. Music, entertainers, and speeches continued through the weekend. Young women were dressed in their long, beautiful Ao Dais.

I met Nga, Diep, Huong, Quyet, Ming, Sam, and Min at the park surrounding the lake. Most were young university students with a great desire and determination to learn English. They know this will help them secure a better career. I spent time with them having coffee, lunch, dinner and riding the city bus to visit the zoo and museums. They were very interested in learning about life in America.

My last destination was Hoi An where it was much warmer than Hanoi. I spent most of my time with a family I met last year. They live across the bridge on Cam Nam Island. The family of eight run a beauty salon, massage parlor, laundry service and store from the lower portion of the house they live in. We spent each day exploring the area on scooters, eating at seafood restaurants, and socializing in the evening at one of the many coffee cafes. At one "floating" restaurant on the river, we ate and watched them fish for our next meal. In the picture a man sits in a lean-to suspended over the water. Turning a wheel lowers the poles and net into the water and, then, turning the wheel in the opposite direction raises the poles and lifts the net out of the water capturing the fish. Hoi An is known for it's seafood and my last night was spent eating a dinner of salad, fried rice, chicken, squid and beer on Cou Dai Beach.